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The story of mens clothing in india

The story of men’s clothing in India begins not with cut-and-sewn garments, but with the elegance of the drape. The subcontinent’s climate—warm and often humid—favored loose, breathable, and versatile attire.

The earliest evidence, found in the Indus Valley Civilization (c. 3300–1300 BCE), shows figures wearing a simple length of cloth wrapped around the lower body, resembling a modern dhoti or a short skirt, often paired with a bare upper body or a light shawl. This emphasis on the unstitched garment, which Hindu traditions later associated with purity, set the fundamental tone for millennia.

The Foundations of Form

The classical period, defined by the Maurya, Gupta, and various South Indian dynasties, solidified the key draped forms:

The Dhoti (Lower Garment): The cornerstone of traditional male attire. It is a rectangular piece of cotton or silk, artfully pleated and tucked to form a garment that provides freedom of movement. Its length, fabric, and draping style were crucial indicators of regional identity, caste, and social status.
The Angavastra or Uttariya (Upper Garment): A simple shawl or mantle worn loosely over the shoulders or chest. It was functional for warmth, sun protection, and a mark of respect, often removed in the presence of elders or during prayer.
The Turban (Pagri/Pheta/Safa): An indispensable accessory, especially in North India and among royal or high-caste individuals. The manner of tying a turban could denote one’s place of origin, profession, or community, transforming a simple cloth into a crown of identity.

In South India, the equivalent of the dhoti, the Veshti (or Mundu in Kerala), became the standard. Unlike the often complexly tucked dhoti of the North, the Veshti was usually worn simply and secured at the waist, its immaculate white color signifying reverence and tradition.

II. The Sultanate & Mughal Influence: The Arrival of the Tailored (12th – 18th Century CE)

The arrival and establishment of Persian, Turkish, and Central Asian rulers from the 12th century onward introduced a revolutionary element to Indian clothing: the tailor’s needle. The colder climates and equestrian cultures of the invaders favored fitted, cut-and-sewn garments, fundamentally altering the male wardrobe, especially among the elite.

The Courtly Wardrobe

The Mughal Empire (16th–19th century) brought an unprecedented level of opulence and sophistication. Indian and Persian styles blended to create courtly fashions that radiated power and majesty:

The Jama: A long, flowing, and richly embroidered coat that flared out dramatically below the waist, often tied asymmetrically under the armpit. It became the dominant court wear, signifying status and often made of muslins, silks, and velvets.
The Angarkha: A variant of the Jama, it was closer-fitting and crossed over the chest, secured with ties. It remained a common garment for noblemen, artists, and musicians long after the Mughal decline.
The Churidar: Introduced as a fitted trouser, it gathered in tight, wrinkle-like folds (the ‘churis’) at the ankle, designed to be comfortable for riding. It was a perfect pairing for the long upper garments.
The Sherwani: Evolving later from the fusion of the Jama and the European frock coat, the Sherwani was a long, tailored coat buttoned to the neck. It began its journey as a garment of Muslim noblemen and would later become a national garment of elegance.

This period established a bifurcation in Indian men’s clothing: the stitched formality of the court (Pajama, Jama, Angarkha) and the draped simplicity of the masses (Dhoti, Lungi).

III. The Colonial Encounter: Westernization and National Identity (18th – Mid-20th Century)

The British East India Company and the subsequent British Raj dramatically reshaped the subcontinent’s sartorial landscape. This era saw the introduction of global fashion trends and the emergence of clothing as a tool of political and social commentary.

The Great Divide: Suit vs. Swadeshi

The Adoption of Western Wear: For those engaged with the colonial administration (lawyers, bureaucrats, and modern industrialists), the Western suit (trousers, jacket, tie) became the uniform of professionalism and modernity. The starched white collar and wool fabrics—ill-suited for the tropical climate—were adopted as symbols of status and authority.
The Birth of National Dress: In reaction to British cultural dominance, a movement to redefine a distinct Indian identity through clothing emerged. Leaders and nationalists consciously chose and standardized Indian garments as an act of resistance (Swadeshi movement).

The single most important sartorial innovation of this period was the rise of the Sherwani and its shorter cousin, the Achkan, as the uniform of the modern Indian gentleman. These garments were sophisticated, tailored, and universally recognizable as Indian, yet were comfortable with the newly adopted Western trouser silhouette.

The Nehru Jacket (a hip-length, tailored, and collared jacket) and the Kurta-Pyjama set (a loose tunic over a loose trouser) were also popularized as simple, elegant, and distinctly national alternatives to colonial attire, becoming the political uniform of post-independence India. Mahatma Gandhi’s adoption of the simple, hand-spun Khadi Dhoti was the ultimate political statement—a powerful message of self-reliance and rejection of industrial capitalism.

IV. Post-Independence and The Global Blending (Mid-20th Century – 1990s)

With independence in 1947, India faced the task of defining its modern identity. Men’s clothing became a reflection of the newly formed secular, democratic, and rapidly developing nation.

The Uniform of Modernity

The post-independence era solidified two main streams in the urban male wardrobe:

Formal and Political: The Kurta-Pyjama and the Sherwani/Achkan remained the standard for political, cultural, and formal occasions, often made in the national fabric, Khadi.
Professional and Casual: Western-style attire dominated the workplace. The shirt and trousers became the de facto professional standard, largely replacing the full suit due to the climate. T-shirts and jeans began to make inroads among the youth in the 1970s and 80s, influenced by global media.

In rural and semi-urban settings, the Dhoti/Veshti/Mundu continued its reign as the primary lower garment, often paired with a simple shirt. In many regions, particularly Bengal, the Lungi—a simple, tubular, and tied piece of fabric—became the staple casual and home wear.

The Rise of Regional Specialties

Regional garments maintained their strong identities:

Rajasthan/Gujarat: Brightly colored, heavily worked Angarkhas and Pagris for cultural events.
Kashmir: The Phiran, a long, loose woolen gown, for cold weather.
South India: The pristine white Veshti and the simple shirt, retaining a classical formality.

V. The New Millennium: Identity, Fusion, and The Internet Age (2000s – Present Day)

The liberalization of the Indian economy in the 1990s and the subsequent rise of globalization, the internet, and a vast middle class brought about the most radical transformation in Indian men’s fashion history.

The Fusion Aesthetic

The early 21st century is defined by fusion—the comfortable and confident blending of Indian and Western silhouettes:

The Redefined Ethnic Wear: The Sherwani has been dramatically re-imagined. Designers have shortened its length, modernized its cut, and incorporated non-traditional fabrics and motifs (like florals and abstract prints), making it the definitive wedding and festive wear.
The Bandhgala (Jodhpuri Suit): A shortened, Western-style jacket with a stand collar, it has exploded in popularity. It is the ultimate fusion garment, combining the structure of a Western blazer with the high collar of the traditional Indian court. It symbolizes quiet, modern luxury and global Indian confidence.
The Designer Kurta: The Kurta has been elevated from a simple tunic to a fashion statement. It is now worn over jeans, chinos, or contemporary trousers, often featuring asymmetrical cuts, unique textures, and subtle embroidery.

The Casual Revolution

The digital age and a highly mobile workforce have made comfort and individuality paramount:

Denim and Athleisure: Jeans, casual shirts, and sportswear now form the core of the everyday wardrobe across all demographics. Athleisure (activewear worn casually) has become a massive market, reflecting the modern, health-conscious urban lifestyle.
The Unstitched Revival: Ironically, as Western wear peaks, there is a renewed interest in traditional drapes. Young men are increasingly experimenting with the Lungi or the elegantly pleated Dhoti for destination weddings and high-fashion events, seeking a connection to heritage while challenging convention.

Sustainability and Craftsmanship

A growing global and domestic awareness has spurred a movement back toward sustainable and hand-crafted textiles. Designers are focusing on:

Handloom: Promoting and modernizing regional weaving styles (like Ikat, Bengal Handloom, and silk weaves) to create high-end, contemporary garments.
Khadi: The national fabric has been re-branded as a luxurious, breathable, and ethical textile, shedding its former political-only image.

Conclusion: A Tapestry of Identity

The story of men’s clothing in India is a dynamic narrative woven from climate, conquest, culture, and globalization. From the sublime simplicity of the unstitched Indus Valley drape to the tailored grandeur of the Mughal Jama, and finally to the contemporary fusion of the Bandhgala and the designer Kurta, the Indian man’s wardrobe has always been a barometer of change.

Today, he moves effortlessly between a bespoke Italian suit for a business meeting, a crisp white Veshti for a temple visit, and a modern Bandhgala for a wedding—each garment chosen to reflect not just a trend, but a specific context, tradition, and identity. The Indian male wardrobe is a complete tapestry: an unparalleled library of garments where the ancient dhoti rests comfortably next to the latest denim, proving that in India, fashion is always history in the making.